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February 2005 NewsletterJim Casada
Web site:
www.jimcasadaoutdoors.com Nature's Bounty“Supper was a delicious memory.” Those simple but superbly expressive words open what is arguably the best-known of all American sporting tales, Nash Buckingham’s “De Shootin’est Gent’man.” Mr. Buck, as his friends knew him, was a native of neighboring Tennessee with a rare knack as a storyteller. Food figures prominently in many of his pieces, and for any sportsman worth his salt, thoughts of grand meals from his days astream or afield always bring a warm feeling. Certainly such has long been the case with me. Game and fish figured prominently in our table fare when I was a boy. Through the fall and winter months there were regular and welcome meals of squirrel with gravy and sweet potatoes, or fried rabbit flanked by cathead biscuits that melted in your mouth. Summertime meant the inexpressible delight of trout, and since I fished almost every day and usually managed to put a few in my wicker creel, there was no shortage of this most delicate and delicious of all freshwater fish. When cooked to a golden brown and dressed in a cornbread overcoat, seven- or eight-inch trout magically disappeared from a heaping platter at our family table. Mom, right up until her death, loved trout beyond almost any food. In fact, during her final years when I was home visiting, my standard parting words as I headed off to the Jenkins Fields on Deep Creek, the Nantahala Gorge, or maybe Noland Creek, were: “Do you want me to keep a mess of fish?” To her that was about as ridiculous a question as could be asked. Her understanding of trout fishing didn’t involve catch-and-release; rather, it ran to thoughts of release to grease. Obviously my fond food memories from boyhood carried over into adult years, because in tandem with my wife I’ve written three original game cookbooks, joined two other authors in writing a fourth one, edited two more, and contributed to several others. I absolutely love game and fish, and the unkind might suggest that my physical profile reflects that fact. Be that as it well may, there’s no arguing with the fact that the ethical hunter cleans and eats what he kills, just as the true fisherman who keeps some for the table makes sure they are enjoyed to the fullest advantage. The ideas of “bringing home the bacon” and “putting meat on the table” are uniquely American ones, and it hasn’t been all that long since folks in this part of the world relied, in no small measure, on nature’s bounty. That reliance took many forms, and it went well beyond game and fish. Until that lord of the Appalachian forests, the American chestnut, fell prey to a virulent blight, it was an integral part of mountain diet. Folks fattened their hogs on chestnuts, gathered them for sale in the cities (where men manning roast chestnut concessions on street corners were commonplace), and ate them in a variety of ways. Spring meant “tonics” in forms such as sassafras tea, “kilt” ramps with branch lettuce, and poke salad. Summertime went hand-in-hand with berry picking. Those delicious red jewels, wild strawberries, came first, then gave way in turn to dewberries, blackberries, blackcap raspberries, and huckleberries. Speaking of berries, I can’t resist sharing one of my favorite food quotations at this point. It comes from the Englishman, Izaak Walton, who is often considered the unofficial patron saint of fishing. Referring to wild strawberries, he said: “Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but doubtless he never did.” In the midst of winter’s bitter cold, such as holds the land in its icy grip as these words are being written, there’s nothing quite like a hearty meal from nature’s rich bounty to put you right with the world. It might be a stack cake made with apple sauce from fruit dried in late summer, blackberry jam adorning a hot biscuit that has been slathered with real butter, or, best of all, a tasty game dish. Whatever the case, along with enjoying the food it is pleasing to look back on the thrill of the hunt or the simple pleasures of a day spent “pickin’” berries as you dine on the products of your own efforts. Here are a couple of recipes, both taken from a cookbook entitled Wild Bounty that my wife and I wrote, you might want to try. Providing, of course, that you’ve got what Grandpa Joe used to call “the fixin’s.” ANNA LOU’S SQUIRRELAnna Lou was my mother, and the wonders she could work with a brace of bushytails were enough to bring tears of pure joy to a country boy gourmet’s eyes. 1-2 squirrels, dressed and quartered Place dressed squirrel(s) in a large saucepan. Cover with cold water, add soda and heat to boiling. Remove from heat and rinse squirrel(s) well under running water, rubbing to remove the soda. Return to pan and cover with fresh water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until tender. Place squirrel(s) in baking dish, dot with butter, and bake at 350 degrees until browned and crusty. Tip: Save the broth to make milk gravy. Rabbit can be prepared the same way, and if you’ve got tough old boar squirrels, it isn’t a bad idea to use a pressure cooker to tenderize them. QUICK AND SIMPLE CHILIIf you’ve got venison in the freezer you are blessed, for deer meat is both healthy and tasty. Here’s a hearty chili that’s easy to prepare. 1-2 pounds ground venison Brown venison and onion. Add tomatoes, beans, tomato paste, water and seasonings. Simmer for 45 minutes or longer for flavors to mix in a lovely marriage. Serve piping hot, topped with grated cheese and chives. Tip: This goes well with a big chunk of cornbread. Thank you for subscribing to the
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